Selvage lines run along the sides of the rug. The line is actually two or more threads twisting around each other and interlaced through the edge of the fabric. Selvage lines help the weaver maintain a straight edge and give the rug a finished look. Although the presence of selvage lines helps indicate the authenticity of a Navajo rug, the absence of these lines does not necessarily mean the rug is not authentic. It is possible to see selvage lines in a photograph.
A well-made Navajo blanket can have a high value collector. It is important to note that before they started weaving rugs, the Navajo tribe made many other products. Many Navajo blankets, made of natural fibers, were intended for daily use. The Spanish introduced the Iberian Churra and they began to use desert wool in their blankets. These blankets were replaced eventually by machine-made blankets, which were made in Pendleton Oregon. A Navajo Rug that is hand-spun from wool will have a higher cost than one made from mass-produced wool. The reason is that the wool is both heavier and more luxurious. Tapestries, which have at least 80 threads per inch, are some of the most beautiful rugs. A well-made rug is balanced and has straight edges. Because some rug weavers add imperfections, it is likely that your rug is not uniform.
Navajo women learned weaving in the mid-1600s from their Pueblo Indian neighbors who had been growing and weaving cotton since about 800 AD. Spanish settlers had brought their Churro sheep to the region in the early 1600s and introduced the Navajo to wool. By the early 1800s, Navajo weavers used wool exclusively, and became well known among both their Indian and Spanish neighbors for finely woven, nearly weatherproof blankets that became popular trade items. Traditional, Native-made blankets were wider than long (when the warp was held vertically) and were known as mantas.
These blankets were highly sought-after trade items by tribes without weaving traditions. Even then, Navajo blankets could be expensive so tribe members with the greatest wealth couldn't afford them. Plains cultures especially valued Navajo blankets because of their warmth, comfort and visual beauty. The blanket design before the features of his face could identify a horseman riding on horseback in one of these weavings. According to Navajo weaving traditions blankets worn by Navajo only existed for 50 years. As affordable blankets like those made by Pendleton Woolen Mills were available, the end of this era was signaled.
The Navajo returned from Bosque Redondo to a very different world; one increasingly tied to the larger Anglo-American economy and culture. Families quickly rebuilt their sheep herds and resumed production of their own hand-spun yarns, although the Churro sheep had been replaced by American Merino sheep which had shorter, greasier wool that was much harder to clean and spin by hand. Weavers also found that the market for their blankets was changing rapidly. The trading post system and its ties to the railroad brought relatively cheap manufactured clothing and supplies to the Navajo and surrounding tribes. Anglo-style coats and dresses were replacing wearing blankets as the clothing of choice among Native peoples.
They were also worn frequently for ceremonial purposes. They continued to learn and improve their blanket-weaving abilities, which led to the Navajo evolving their methods. The Traditional Fine Arts Organization explains that this led to blankets in a variety of styles and colors and more complex designs. They quickly expanded their product lines from blankets and wraps to rugs. Demand for both increased. This increased demand was driven by traders who also had an influence on regional designs. The Navajo eventually began to use their gods, and other spiritual figures in their woven works. According to PBS, a Navajo blanket used to cost $100 to $150 by the end of the 19th century. This was in a time period when men only earned $5 per week.
Wool is the standard material used in the making of a Navajo rug. There are a few genuine Navajo rugs made using synthetic materials such as acrylic. If encountering one, it could be looked at as the result of a Navajo woman weaving her own cheap knock-off. In such case, it probably doesn't matter is it is real or not. The imitators may use wool but there are poor fakes made in Mexico that use polyester. Some fakes made in India or Pakistan use a blend of wool and polyester or acrylic. Contrary to another author, sniffing the rug to determine if the rug is made from wool is not useful. Much of the wool use in contemporary Navajo rugs has very little lanolin and doesn't smell at all. Older rugs may have been cleaned or have acquired other odors. It is comic to watch a potential buyer go through a store's inventory sniffing the rugs. A buyer should learn to distinguish the look and feel of wool from other materials. While there are more scientific means of testing for wool, they are usually not practical in the context of purchasing a rug from a store or Indian arts dealer.